Handy Tools and
Professional Help
Truing a bent Coly Python ejector rod using the Power Custom
extractor and yoke alignment jig with dial indicator.
Revolvers or wheelguns need balance. By that, I mean their cylinders need to turn true and smooth. One area that can get out of balance is the ejector rod, which the cylinder revolves around. If it’s out of true, it can slow down the action or bind up. The ejector rod can get bent by dropping or hard use.
To correct this, the rod must be returned to true using a tool like the Power Custom Extractor and Yoke Alignment Jig. This allows the pistolsmith to find the locations of bends with a dial indicator and then bend the rod back little by little until it spins true and freely. The end result is a smoother action.
I had a client with a Colt Python in for just this problem. The Colt ejector rod is thinner than most and can bend. I’ve had the Power Custom jig for maybe 10 years and used it only a few times, but within minutes, I had the Python back in balance and running smoothly.
At left is the new Kart ramped barrel, which fully supports the base
of the 9mm cartridge. At right is the overcut barrel, which allowed
cases to rupture or blow out when fired.
A grossly overcut 9mm 1911 barrel throat caused case rupture,
a serious situation that could injure a shooter. he only remedy
was to machine the frame for a rammed barrel.
Finding Your Smith
The Good, The Bad and the Ugly of the gunsmithing world: How do I find the right smith for me?
Gunsmiths, like any craftsman or mechanic, are hard to come by; good ones even harder. But how do you know? This is not an easy topic to broach. I debated writing about this topic for a long time and talked with a few other smiths before getting a nudge from Roy Huntington to write it.
I’m not here to point fingers or name names; that’s not fair. But as a whole, the trade lacks some credentials that can allow anyone with an FFL and a Dremel to call themselves a gunsmith.
For one, a gunsmith does more than replace parts. They are craftsmen who have the ability to create parts and make complex repairs that require precision machine work, then finish those projects to a “better than factory” standard. That’s not a knock to armorers; we need them, but occasionally, there are folks who blur the line between parts replacement and custom-fitting parts.
It might just be part of our disposable society: “Just replace it.” I recently had a West Coast 1911 owner send me a Colt 1911 that had been having feeding issues. He had originally sent the gun to a “gunsmith” for tuning. What he got back was an accident waiting to happen. Correct that, an accident that did happen. The barrel and feed ramp had been so over-cut that cartridges were rupturing out the base upon firing. This is a dangerous situation that can cause injury to the shooter.
I got the pistol and had to pick my jaw off the floor after taking a look at it. How could this happen? A corrective fix was not cheap; the feed-ramp was too far gone. The only cure was to machine the frame for a ramped barrel and fit a new Kart barrel. This should never have happened.
So, how do you find a reputable smith? First, ask around and ask detailed questions. Did the smith go to a trade school like Pennsylvania Gunsmith School, Montgomery, Colorado School of Trades or work as a smith in the Army or USMC? Maybe they’re a member of the Custom Gunmakers Guild or the old Pistolsmith Guild. There are some really good smiths that don’t belong to an organization, which is fine, but check out their history and previous work. The quality of work could be a lifesaver in one form or another. Also, many smiths work on just a few platforms. Be sure it’s the right person for your job.
The Brian Powley 1911 fixture plate in the milling
vice allows machining of the side of the frame.
1911 Frame Service Plate
It’s no secret the right tool or jig makes jobs go a lot easier. Master engraver Brian Powley just released a fixture plate for the 1911 that makes working on the flat side of the frame a lot easier. I have a few fixture plates for the 1911, but this one is a step better.
First, it has an added spine on the back of the plate that allows it to be held in my vise jaws. Others are too big. Next, the hold-down screw points are all fitted with steel inserts in the aluminum plate. The plate is set up for both full-size and compact frames with a cut-out for the plunger tube. There are hold-down blocks for the magwell and dust cover area. I can see it used for straightening frame lines and countersinking slide-stop pin holes. I’m sure I’ll come up with other uses for it. Brian designed the plate for engravers, but it’s a good addition for gunsmiths.
For more info: PowerCustom.com, KartBarrel.com, ACCG.org, PowleyEngraving.com
